I just came across two great new books that I am sure will remain in my kitchen library for a long time to come.

Pressure Canning Basics

I have a tiny freezer built into the ancient refrigerator in the apartment I rent in the Boston metropolitan area. I am often cooking and enjoy the benefits of homemade stocks and soups. However, with my freezer being so small I had no way to store stocks, stews, pates, etc. I discovered pressure canning as a solution.

Pressure canning is different than the hot water bath canning your grandparents or parents did. Pressure canning was invented to preserve meat products at home. Pressure canning may be used for jams, jellies, tomatoes, or pickles and will speed up those processes; however, it is not necessary for them. More specifically, pressure canning is for low-acid foods. When doing water-bath canning the acid in the fruit or added in the form of vinegar destroys yeast, mold, enzymes, and bacteria that can be harmful to us humans; however, when preserving products containing meats the acid is not present. A more technical approach is to say any food to be canned with a pH over 4.6 must be done so in a pressure canner.

The advantage of a pressure canner is that it is a sealed environment in which the pressure increases as the temperature increases. Remember the ideal gas law from chemistry class? The nasty bacteria we need to kill when preserving our food dies at 240°^F. That equates to an internal pressure of about 10 psi. There are adjustments for pressure canning at high altitudes.

Presto 1755 16-Quart Aluminum Pressure Cooker/Canner Review

I started off with the Presto 1755 16-Quart Aluminum Pressure Cooker/Canner. It is the least expensive of the available models and nearly the smallest too. It is not a small tool however. It rivals my All-Clad 12-Quart Stockpot in physical size and outweighs it too. This model will fit 10 pint-sized jars or 7 quart-sized jars. I often use ½-pint-sized jars and can fit 14 of these smaller jars. This has been a great pressure canner that can also be used as a pressure cooker. The only downside to this economy model the way in which the pressure is regulated.

Pressure Control

Pressure canners have two methods of controlling the pressure in the vessel. The easiest method is to have a gauge display the internal pressure and have you, the user, regulate the heat source under the canner. Once the canner is at your desired pressure you have to regulate the burner temperature to maintain your desired pressure. Technically, if at any time during the canning process the pressure falls below the desired mark you should restart your time. This is the method used by Presto.

There is an easier method to control pressure in the canner. This is accomplished by using a specific weight on the vent pipe. A different weight is used for each desired pressure. You simply turn up the heat under the canner and the once the pressure inside the canner reaches the desired level the weight on the vent pipe relieves excess pressure. This is the system used by All-American. This is not to be confused with an over-pressure relief which is a safety that is on all pressure canners regardless of manufacturer.

Canner Size

I have found that 14 pint-sized jars is hardly enough to preserve one batch of chicken stock. Therefore, I have to run several batches through the canner. This is not a problem, though is a demand on my time. Canning chicken stock takes 10 minutes; however, that doesn’t include the time to heat the water in the canner to boiling, evacuate the canner with steam for 10 minutes, and allow it to cool down on its own after the canning is done. In reality, one batch of 14 jars takes almost an hour. Most of that time is unattended, but your pressure canner will be tied up. When canning stock I find the larger Presto 1781 23-Quart Aluminum Pressure Cooker/Canner to be better as it can hold 26 half-pint sized jars.

With either canner you’ll want the basic jar lifter and funnel included in Back to Basics 286 5-Piece Home Canning Kit

Jar Size

I live alone; though cook a lot and entertain frequently as well. I am not a typical bachelor in the kitchen. I started pressure canning with chicken stock. I was tired of buying a big box of stock at the store, using ½ to 1-cup in a recipe and 3-weeks later tossing out the rest. Consequently, when I can stock, I use ½-pint sized jars. The canning procedure requires 1-inch of head-space when canning; therefore, a ½-pint sized jar will hold exactly ¾-cup of liquid and still have the required 1-inch of head-space. I love the ¾-cup serving size. I find myself frequently using a bit of stock here or there in place of water since it is so simple to open a small amount. If a recipe calls for more stock I simply open more cans. The jars and bands are reusable; however, the lids are not. The lids are very inexpensive to replace though.

After canning chicken stock in ½-pint sized jars I moved onto beef stock also in the same size jar. Beef stock lead me into canning beef stew, specifically Julia Child’s Boeuf Bourguignon and also her onion soup. Both recipes are in her first book Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1 .

For the Boeuf Bourguignon I use the quart-sized jars and for the onion soup I use the pint-sized jars. I find that a quart of Boeuf Bourguignon will amply feed one very hungry cyclist, or, more reasonably, two people adequately. A pint of onion soup is amazing to warm up with for one person on a cold evening.

Resources

There are two very reliable and extensive resources for pressure canning recipes if you don’t already have an idea of what foods you want to preserve. Firstly, the website CanningUSA.com has several great recipes and instructional videos. I have made their pork and rabbit pates and absolutely love them. I gave them away as Christmas gifts this year and they were very well received. Additionally, it is fantastic to have homemade pate sitting on your shelf for any occasion. Secondly, every canner should have a copy of Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving

Summary

Your choice of canners really comes down to two aspects. Firstly, do you want a 16-quart size and potentially have to do multiple batches or go with the monstrous 23-quart size? Secondly, do you have either Presto or All-American to choose from. Presto is less expensive, has a sealing system that has a life-limited gasket, and requires to to manage the heat source. All-American is more expensive, more durable and easier to use. Here are the options:

Smaller Canners

Larger Canners

I ended up with the Presto 16-quart and an All-American 21-1/2-quart.

Yogurt dishes are great in the summer. Here is one that adds some eggplant for added texture.

• 1 eggplant
• 3 cups plain yogurt
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Peel and cut the eggplant into 1-inch cubes. Steam the eggplant cubes in a steamer basket over a pan of boiling water.  Cover the pan and steam for 10 minutes. I use a Norpro Stainless-Steel Expandable Vegetable Steamer in my Calphalon One Infused Anodized 5-Quart Sauté Pan with Lid. The basket works in so many of my pots and pans. In this case the wide saute pan is perfect to keep the eggplant all in one layer.

Steaming Eggplant

After steaming the eggplant, let it cool so it won’t curdle the yogurt. Meanwhile beat the yogurt with the salt, black pepper, mint, and cayenne until it is creamy. Once the eggplant has cooled mash it with a fork or potato masher and mix it into the yogurt.

Yogurt, salt, pepper, cayenne, and mint

Serve cold. This mates perfectly with barbecue or Indian food.

I love tarts that can be thrown together anytime during the day and served at room temperature. This anchovy and onion tart scream summer and works perfectly for any dinner and is great to pack on picnics. Serve it with a sparkling wine or Belgian Tripel Beer. The dough is quick and fun to make too.

For the basic tart dough:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 egg
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup warm water

To make the dough, first mix the flour and salt together in bowl. Then add in the egg, olive oil, and water. Mix it either in a KitchenAid stand mixer or by hand. Knead it until you have a uniform ball of doug, about 3-5 minutes. Let the dough rest for about an hour at room temperature in a covered bowl.

For the tart topping:

• 3 pounds yellow onions thinly sliced
• 4 cloves of garlic
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 sprigs of fresh thyme
• 8 anchovies rinsed and pulverized
• 1 cup black olives sliced in half
• salt and pepper

The topping is quick and easy to make while the dough is resting. First, slice the onions thinly. You can use a knife; however, will probably shed too many tears. I love my OXO Good Grips V-Blade Mandoline Slicer and it will slice the 3 pounds of onions very quickly. Cleanup is a breeze on the slicer too. Use the included holder to protect your fingers. The mandoline slicer is extremely sharp.

Slicing Onion on Oxo V-Blade Mandoline

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over low heat in a large skillet, such as the All-Clad Stainless 6-Quart Saute Pan. Add the onions, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and let the onions sweat for about an hour. You don’t want them to brown, just soften. Stir occasionally.

Sweating Onions and herbs in an All-Clad 6-quart saute pan

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Once the dough has rested for about an hour, roll it out with a rolling pin adding flour as necessary to prevent sticking. It should be about 1/8-inch thick and large enough to cover a baking sheet. I use the Anolon cookie sheet and love it. I’ve never had anything stick to it and the rubberized grips cool quickly and provide a secure grip with a towel or hotpad.

Rolling dough for anchovy and onion tart

Tart dough in baking pan

Prick the dough all over with a fork. Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs from the onions and mix in the mashed anchovies. Spread the mixture over the dough. Place the olive halves decoratively on top.

Anchovy and onion tart before baking

Bake the tart at 350 for 30-45 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and crisp. Let the tart cool to room temperature and serve. You will love it.

Anchovy and Onion tart after baking

When on road trips throughout the country you may, unfortunately, encounter areas where quality classic cocktails have not yet been rediscovered. Or, perhaps, you’d like to show off to your friends, or mix up wonderful libations in your hotel room. In these cases, I use a basic 3 Piece Cocktail Shaker Kit setup that lets me mix up great classic cocktails at friend’s homes or anywhere on the road. It is perfect for travel.

On this particular trip, a friend and took the airlines from Boston to Florida and drove back, seeing friends and collecting possessions along the way. The first stop was at a friend’s with a fairly well stocked bar; however, she had no makings for classic margaritas which my traveling companion loves. We picked up some Reposado tequila and Cointreau at a local liquor store and we were all set.

Mixing a margarita classic cocktail on a road trip

The next afternoon we stopped out at a place that touted classic cocktails. I am always leery of places claiming to know how to make classic cocktails. It is really hit-or-miss.  We sampled their version of the classic margarita. Sometimes I learn great tips or recipes from bartenders; however, that was not the case here. The margarita contained lots of mixes and no fresh lime juice. It was served in a pretty glass, though.

Margarita at a restaurant

Later that day we stopped at a restaurant with an impressive-looking bar. Unfortunately, they had no orange bitters for a traditional martini. They didn’t have any fresh juice for a margarita either. Sometimes you just have to give up on the classic cocktail path and return to beer and wine.

Beer and wine instead of classic cocktails

On the final evening of our road trip we had a late stop in a hotel. I again brought out my 3 Piece Cocktail Shaker Kit and set to work. I had to cut the limes with my scuba diving knife, but it all worked and we had tremendous margaritas in a small-town hotel. Sometimes small sacrifices must be made on the road to enjoy a great beverage. For my next road trip I am going to bring some plastic cocktail glasses.

Margarita at a hotel

I often make a citrus and thyme roasted chicken. It is easy, quick, and requires little attention. I like to have the chicken in the refrigerator for sandwiches or a quick snack. If friends drop in, pull out cold chicken and serve it with some sharp cheddar cheese, bread, and perhaps some pickles. It makes the perfect picnic material too.

The other evening I was looking for a good dinner that wouldn’t take a lot of time. I roasted the chicken in my All-Clad Stainless Petite Roti Pan with Roasting Rack. After starting it at 425-degrees for 20 minutes, I turned the oven down to 325 for the remaining time. At the same time I turned down the oven, I added a few washed red potatoes to the roasting rack, right alongside the chicken. This way they wouldn’t soak in all the drippings and be too greasy.

Roast chicken with potatoes

Just before the chicken was done, I heated about 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in my Calphalon5-Quart Sauté Pan. When the butter was melted, I added 10-ounces of fresh spinach. Turn it frequently with stainless steel locking tongs until it is just wilted and soft. For the last minute of cooking toss in 2 finely chopped garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon of fresh ground nutmeg. I often use nutmeg in savory foods, especially leafy greens. It is so easy to add fresh nutmeg to any food with the Microplane Grate and Shake Nutmeg Grater.

Sauteing spinach

Roast chicken and potatoes with sauted spinach

After a long day of bicycling, there is nothing better to come home to than a shower, cold beer, and great grilled food. Start the charcoal in your grill with a chimney charcoal starter. Lighter fluid smells and tastes bad and can be dangerous. Hop in the shower, pour a cold beer and your are ready to start cooking.

Cut the top 1/4 off several heads of garlic. Place them in a foil pan and add olive oil until it is 1/3 the way up each head of garlic. Season with salt and pepper and set them on the grill. Grill, covered, until the garlic is soft and falling apart. At that point it has all the flavor of garlic but additional sweetness and none of the garlic bite.

Roasted garlic on the grill

While the garlic is cooking, wash a bunch of new potatoes, slice them in half, and toss with smashed garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Place them on the grill, cut side down. Grill them, covered, until they are soft and slightly blackened. When you remove them, toss with a bit more salt and pepper.

Roasted new potatoes off the grill

If you have any sausages now is the time to put them on the grill. Cook them until they are done and remove to a serving platter.

Now is the time to grill the Cohog clams. Wash the outsides of the clams and put them directly on the grill. Leave them uncovered and they will open in about 5 minutes. When they open, remove and pile into a serving bowl.

Cooking Cohog clams on the grill

Squeeze the roasted garlic out of each clove into a small serving dish. This is great for both the clams and especially the roasted potatoes. Melt some butter for the clams, and serve some whole grain mustard for the sausages. Make sure there is plenty of cold beer to go around.

Summer table with roast new potatoes, grilled Cohog clams, and grilled sausages.

The Boutonniere is an unique and wonderful springtime cocktail. The idea for this recipe comes from Scott Holliday at Rendezvous in Central Square, Cambridge, MA. As the name indicates, this cocktail really looks like, smells like, and tastes like a boutonniere. It is a great afternoon cooler.

Boutonniere:

• 2 ounces applejack
• 1 ounce dry vermouth
• 1/2 ounce St. Germain Liqueur
• 1 dash Peychaud’s bitters
• 1 dash orange bitters

Boutonniere cocktail ingredients

Mix the ingredients in a mixing glass with large ice cubes. Using a julep strainer strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

You can either leave the twist in the drink, or discard it. The important thing is that using a zester you zest the orange over the finished cocktail. This way the oils from the orange zest will spray onto the top of the drink. The oils floating on the top will add a wonderful aroma for each sip you or your guests take from this already fragrant and delicious cocktail.

Stirring the boutonniere cocktail

Boutonniere cocktail

I love this salad year-round. The zing from the citrus pairs well with the hearty spinach. This salad can pair with nearly any dish and is a breeze to throw together.

Spinach and Grapefruit Salad (serves 4):

• 1/3 pound fresh spinach, about 6 cups, trimmed and washed
• 2 pink grapefruit
• 1/4 red onion, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
• 1 tablespoon poppy seeds

Start by slicing the red onion and putting the slices in cold water to soak. This gets rid of the harsh onion bite and leaves the wonderful onion flavor.

Sliced red onions soaking in cold water

With a paring knife, remove the peel and white pith of each grapefruit. Work over bowl so you can catch any juices that drip out.

Grapefruit with skin and white pith removed

Next, slice between each segment to remove the grapefruit segments and leave the connecting material behind. Continue to work over a bowl, catching the juices. When you are done, squeeze the leftover core to get the rest of the juice from it.

Grapefruit slices and juice

Using an All-Clad stainless butter warmer or Lodge miniature cast iron skillet toast the poppy seeds until they are fragrant. This will take about 3 or 4 minutes. Set them aside to cool.

Toasting poppy seeds

To prepare the dressing, using a small blender like the Cuisinart Mini-Prep Processor add the peeled garlic cloves, vinegar, mustard, and any juice from the grapefruit slices. Process until the garlic is completely chopped. Drizzle in the olive oil and continue to process until smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Making dressing for spinach and grapefruit salad in a Cuisnart mini-prep

In a large salad bowl toss the spinach, drained onions, grapefruit segments, and dressing. Sprinkle the toasted poppy seeds over the top of the bowl or over each plate as you serve the salad.

Salad, dressing, and poppy seeds ready for assembly

Spinach and grapefruit salad

I was in the mood for some comfort food and mac and cheese came to mind. I love mac and cheese, but not the greasy and overly creamy versions. This is a four-cheese mac and cheese with lobster meat added to really make it fancy. You can make this exact dish without the lobster too. I used lived lobsters since I live in New England and they are readily available; however, you could use canned lobster or crab meat instead.

Lobster Mac & Cheese (serves 4):

• 2 1-1/4 pound lobsters
• 1 cup blanched broccoli florets
• 8 ounces macaroni elbows or similar pasta
• 6 ounces mild cheddar cheese
• 3 ounces Gruyere cheese
• 2 ounces Fontina cheese
• 2 ounces Parmesan cheese
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 3 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup finely diced onion
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/8 nutmeg
• 1/2 cup bread crumbs

Live Lobsters

I steeped the lobsters according to Thomas Keller in his book, The French Laundry Cookbook. This way the I could remove the meat from the shell before it was fully cooked knowing it would cook completely while baking in the mac and cheese. I didn’t want to overcook the lobster making it chewy. I used my Le Creuset 5-quart oval French oven to steep each lobster individually, according to Keller’s book.

Once the lobsters were partially cooked, I used my Chicago Cutlery kitchen scissors to cut along the bottom of the shell of each tail. I could then crack it open and remove the tail meat intact.

Cutting along bottom of shell on lobster tail

For the claws, first remove the two knuckles attached to each claw. Just twist them off. You can usually push the meat out of the knuckles with your finger. Sometimes it may take a whack with a hammer though to break up some of the shell.

Lobster claws about to be cracked

I wanted the claws to be as intact as possible, making for a great presentation in the finished dish. I carefully removed the bottom pincer of each claw, leaving the meat attached to the rest of the shell. Then, using a meat tenderizing hammer I cracked each claw at the top, about 1/4 of the way in from the base. This allowed me to remove the shell and keep the claw meat intact. It works perfectly every time.

Cracking lobster claws to keep the meat intact

Once you have all the meat from the tail, knuckles, and claws, cut it up into large chunks, leaving the claws as whole as possible.

Lobster meat cut into chunks for lobster mac and cheese

Once you have the lobster meat, you are ready to make the mac and cheese. The lobster meat can hang out in the refrigerator for a few hours on a plate covered with plastic wrap if you want to prepare it ahead of time.

Begin by preheating the oven to 350-degrees and bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil for the macaroni. Don’t add the pasta yet, however. To make the sauce for mac and cheese, begin by heating the milk over medium heat. You want it very hot, but not simmering or boiling. I used my All-Clad 1-quart sauce pan for this.

Meanwhile, in an All-Clad 2-quart sauce pan melt the butter over medium heat. Once it is melted, add the flour and continue to whisk over medium to low heat for about 5 minutes. You are making a basic roux and you don’t want it to brown but still cook long enough to remove the flour taste.

Butter and flour in an All-Clad 2-quart sauce pan making a roux

After you have cooked the roux for about 5 minutes, add the hot milk while continuing to whisk. Add a little bit at first, whisk to incorporate, then add more milk. You now transforming your roux into a bechamel sauce.

Adding hot to roux while whisking

Once all the milk is incorporated, add the onion, cayenne, nutmeg, bay leaf, and paprika. Whisk to incorporate and allow this to simmer for about 10 minutes. This will give you time to grate the cheeses and cook your macaroni. Cook the pasta so it is truly al-dente. You want it to be a bit chewy as it will cook more in the oven during the next steps.

Bechamel sauce with seasonings

Cheddar, Gruyere, Fontina, and Parmesan cheese for mac & cheese

Grated cheeses for mac and cheese

After the sauce has cooked for about 10 minutes remove the bay leaf and add 3/4 of the grated cheese to the sauce pan. Stir to melt and incorporate.

Adding grated cheese to bechamel sauce for mac and cheese

Once the sauce is smooth and the pasta is cooked, mix them in a bowl. Carefully fold in the lobster meat and blanched broccoli florets. Transfer the mixture to a Pyrex 3-quart baking dish.

Macaroni and cheese with lobster and broccoli in Pyrex baking dish

Sprinkle the remaining cheese then the bread crumbs over the top.

Top of mac and cheese sprinkled with extra cheese then bread crumbs

Bake the dish in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. The top should turn golden brown and the entire dish will be bubbling.

Mac and cheese after baking

Let the dish cool a bit before serving.

Lobster macaroni and cheese